I have quite literally fled for the hills.
My third day in Delhi, I felt much more capable of dealing with the press of humanity, the noise, and smells that permeate Delhi. Still I was happy to get to my train. Once again I was saved by the advice of my friend Vish, who insisted I get a 2nd Class, AC ticket. The train was comfortable, clean and well maintained. I slept quite well, and woke early, which gave me a chance to watch the countryside as we neared Dehradun.
In Dehradun I caught my first Indian bus up to Mussoorie. Which required climbing a 1 1/2 lane road 6000 feet up the mountain. From the bus, I chose to walk up to the language school. I walked for about 10 minutes up the narrow, store lined Landour Bazaar. From a tailor shop and man called to me, and invited me in to have a seat, which I did happily. Within minutes Chai arrived, and they got extra glasses to share with me. Before I left, I was rested caffeinated, and had an invitation to dinner that evening. Then, to top it off, he gave me a ride up the hill to my hotel — which turned out to be very far.
More on Landour and Mussoorie soon…
Category: Mussoorie
Snapshots
Soon I will try to get some pictures uploaded, but in the meantime I want to give a few quick snapshots of things i have found interesting:
From the Minaar (tower) at the Masjid in Delhi, I noticed the colors of the buildings for the first time. Each was washed with a color: blue, green, yellow. I realized that I was working so hard not to be run over or accosted on the street, that I had not noticed. Also from the tower, watching an 8 year old swinging her little sibling around on a small roof without a wall or railing.
Two army men in camoflage, with machine guns slung over their shoulders, holding hands.
The “Caution Elephants” sign next to the train tracks outside Dehradun.
Swarms of dragonflies in all the parks in Delhi.
Mussoorie
Mussoorie is a Raj-era hill station (where the British and well-to-do vacationed in the hot summers), which sprawls along a ridge in the foothills of the Himalayas. Start at the Mussoorie Bazaar, which is full of craft, clothing and gift shops and restaurants which cater to the honeymooning Indians. The bazaar has almost a carnival atmosphere.
The Weather
Please let me vent a bit about the weather. The monsoon is stubbornly holding on — it came late and fully intends to get its due. Every day there are intermittant showers. I don’t mind the rain…it sounds beautiful on the metal roof of the hotel. But the humidity has me at my wit’s end. Everything is damp. My books are all swelling, the sheets on my bed are clammy. I did my laundry on Saturday, and on Monday evening it was still wet.
Please, somebody remind me of this when I’m trapped in the dry heat of the south.
Afternoon in Mussoorie
It is 2 in the afternoon and I am sitting at a small cafe cum store in an area called “Char Dukan” (literally “Four Stores”). My hotel is fairly secluded, and this is the closest commercial area on the way down to town.
Hotel Devdar Woods
My hotel as I first saw it.
Inam and Islam
My friends Inam (seated) and his younger brother Islam in their tailor shop. From his spot in the window, Inam has a view of everybody coming up the street. There is a constant flow of people stopping to say “hi” and/or coming into his shop. He makes friends with every foreigner who strays into Landour. He has been working as a tailor for 22 years, and I have already had several things sewn by him. My plan for having clothes tailored here worked perfectly.
Mussoorie Sunset
A view of Mussoorie at sunset. I managed to snap this on one of the few days where there was a nice view during the day. Mornings have tended to be the only time when the sun shines.
The Ganges
On Sunday I saw the Ganges river for the first time. Three friends and I took a taxi and spent the day in Rishikesh (where the Beatles went to meet the Maharishi in the 1960s). It is a popular pilgrimage spot for Indians, and a yoga and meditation mecca for westerners. There are several temples and countless ashrams offering all sorts of yoga (as one indian visitor said to us, “they are selling hinduism”).
Seewa Aur Bangra
I am exhausted! This weekend was the anniversary celebration for the local Gurudwara (Sikh temple). I went Friday night and did Seewa (selfless service). I helped to prepare and serv dinner, which is offered to all who show up. For meals in the Gurudwara, people of all social ranks (and formerly castes) sit together on the floor to eat.