Next came my introduction to Indian driving and traffic. At night the roads were full of large, brigthly painted trucks which loomed up out of the mist belching clouds fo smoke. Nobody followed lanes, and swerved and suged around each other like a swarm of bees. The horn, I soon discovered, is used much like a fog horn, to let the other drivers know you are there. More on the traffic later.
Eventually we reached smaller streets, where I could see the prostrate forms of people sleeping next to the road: on the sidewalk, charpoys or on their bicycle carts.
By the time I reached my opulant hotel, I was completely dazed. I reached my room, sat down and said to myself, “what the hell have you gotten yourself into?!?”
On Monday I was saved by Vish’s cousin Anu. She picked me up from my hotel and baby sat me for the day. I doubt I would have had the nerve to leave the hotel otherwise.
In the afternoon we went to a poorer section of town where she had to do some work. I waited on the street while she went upstairs. I was constantly surrounded by people trying to sell me things. A small woman with an infant in dirty rags followed me for 10 minutes saying, “manee”. I had all my money toghether, and was too freaked out to take it out right there, so I eventually ignored her and kept walking. I am still working out my feelings about all this.
Tonight I am fleeing to the hills (quite literally). I take the night train to Dehradun. By tomorrow night I’ll be in Mussoorie.

My visit has also been wonderful thanks to another friend and her family. Suzanne, who is Dutch married to an Indian, invited me for a family wedding. The family made me feel very welcome. This kept me happily occupied for three days. Thursday night was the ring ceremony at a lovely estate outside Delhi. This event reminded me very much of an American wedding reception. There was a dance floor and a DJ. Early in the evening most people were too shy to dance much, but later, after a couple of drinks, the floor was packed. Only the mix of music was different: a popular Hindi song being followed by Queen’s “We Will Rock You.”
Friday was the Mahendi (Sp?) celebration. This is an event for the women, who all have their hands painted with henna, and sit around singing and talking. Again I enjoyed being a Videshi, as I was encouraged to have my arm tattooed (Don’t worry mom, it’s not permanant). Saturday was the actual wedding. The whole bride’s side (40+ people), including the household servants, piled into a bus and headed for the wedding site. The wedding was held outdoors in a beautiful garden. The actual ceremony took around one hour.
So, now I am exhausted, but happy. I feel much more confidant in Delhi, and am beginning to learn my way around. Tonight I take the night train to Amritsar.

He lives close very close to Mark’s apartment (where I stay in Delhi), so I hopped in an auto rickshaw, and was there in five minutes. We sat and chatted for about an hour, and then his cook broght dinner. After eating, we went down to Parvez’ office and watched some of his videos.
His work deals mostly with causes, such as rights for the disabled, and feminist issues in India. I found his films inspiring, and powerful, blending strong visuals and his ear for music. In fact two of the films are music videos, in one of which he himself performs. It was nice to see some of the contemporary art being produced here — something other than bollywood.
When I told him I was vegetarian, he said he would take me to have some of the best veggie food in Delhi. So, the next evening we drove out to a suburb (actually in Uttar Pradesh), to a little restaurant in a quiet neighborhood. It is the sort of place that you would never find as a tourist. The food was excellent, especially the roti (flat bread) which was hot and crispy.
On friday evening we met again for a meal at a dhaba close to his house. It is a paratha (stuffed flat bread) joint (more of a shack), with tables out front. When we arrived it was swarming with people eating hot parathas. Parvez fought his way through the crowd and returned with one egg and one potato paratha for each of us. Again I have to say that the best food in India is to be found at dhabas (little road side stalls).